Koehler-Ruprecht Riesling Kabinett Trocken 'Kallstadter' 2022

"I hate German Riesling, apart from Koehler-Ruprecht Auslese Trocken 'R'. That's one of the best white wines in the world", Etna winemaker Frank Cornellisen once told us. We immediately found ourselves a bottle, and loved it so much that we began importing their wines.

Founded in the 1700s, Koehler-Ruprecht built a reputation for its quality dry Rieslings in Kallstadt long before the style found popularity. The Spätlese and Auslese Trocken designations mean a lot here (not surprising considering they practically invented them) – so much so that they pulled out of the VDP when authorities banned the practice of declaring both the prädikat and the word trocken on a label at the same time. Estate manager Dominik Sona's decision was in keeping with the uncompromising ethos of previous long-time domaine owner, Bernd Philippi, who he worked alongside before taking over in 2012.

Dominik's approach, he says, makes them "the last of the mohicans": Koehler-Ruprecht's whole production is made using traditional techniques, with spontaneous fermentations in old oak casks with extended lees contact, before ageing in large-format, centenarian barrels.

Kallstadt Riesling is an excellent introduction to the range, but it is the limestone-rich 'Saumagen' vineyard that delivers the estate's top wines. Produced in minuscule amounts and only in great vintages, the "R" and "RR" (rare and reserve) wines are among the most complex and ageworthy dry whites in Germany.