David Duband Bourgogne Rouge 2021

A chance meeting between François Feuillet and Pierre Duband in 1991 led to the latter’s then-19-year-old son, David, being installed as winemaker for both families. The agreement is simple: David tends the vineyards and makes the wine, selling his share under the Duband label, with François selling the other half as Domaine Feuillet.

This dream arrangement gives David the chance to farm parcels he could never otherwise afford. Over the years, Feuillet has accrued prized vineyards across Burgundy, including plots in Grand Crus Echézeaux, Latricières-Chambertin, and Chambertin, as well as spectacular old vines from Domaine Louis Rémy and the now defunct Domaine Jacky Truchot.

From his ‘humble’ Hautes-Côtes de Nuits to the starrier appellations, David is able to produce wines from a wide range of appellations, all of which are representative of their terroirs. These are beautifully refined Pinot Noirs with complex perfumes – a result of a stylistic change to whole bunch fermentation in 2008, inspired by David’s fondness for the wines of Dujac and DRC.

With his reputation growing with every passing vintage, it is no surprise that David is held in high esteem by many of the region’s top growers and commentators.From vines in Morey and Chambolle, this shows an enchanting floral-fruit perfume (cherry drops and blossom) and delicate sweet oak. Tight and crunchy on the palate, it has enough tannin and structure to drink half now and to see what the rest do with a bit of time in bottle.